Few foods have travelled as far, or for as long, as salt cod. Fish caught in the cold North Atlantic is split, salted and dried, then shipped south to kitchens in Spain, Portugal and Italy, where it becomes something completely different.
Iceland has been part of that story for centuries. Icelanders call it saltfiskur. In Spain it is bacalao, in Portugal bacalhau, and in Italy baccalà. The fish is the same, but the dishes could hardly be more varied.
Here is a guide to Icelandic salt cod: how it is made, why southern Europe loves it, and how to cook it at home.
What is salt cod?
Salt cod is cod that has been preserved with salt. The fish is split, cleaned and packed in salt, which draws out moisture and stops bacteria from growing. Some salt cod is then dried further, making it firm and almost board-like.
Before refrigeration, this was one of the best ways to keep fish for months. It could survive long sea voyages and hot climates, which is why it became a staple far from the waters where the cod was caught.
Salt cod is not the same as stockfish. Stockfish, or hardfiskur in Iceland, is dried in the wind without any salt. Both are old preservation methods, but they taste and behave differently in the kitchen.
A long trade with southern Europe
Icelanders have processed and exported salt fish since at least the 18th century. Spain has been the most important market for most of that time, both in volume and price.
Research from the University of Iceland describes how, in the early 20th century, around 80 percent of the salt fish produced in Iceland went to Spain, with most of the rest going to Italy. Portugal was also an important buyer around 1930.
Today, the Icelandic food research institute Matís lists Spain, Portugal, Italy, Greece, France and Brazil as the main destinations for Icelandic salted fish. In many of these countries, it is eaten both as everyday food and as a festive dish.
Why Spain prefers Icelandic salt cod
Spanish buyers have long paid a premium for Icelandic and Faroese salt cod. A Nordic report published by Matís explains that the fish from these countries tends to be whiter, thicker and juicier, qualities Spanish consumers value highly.
Part of the reason is processing. Icelandic producers moved towards wet salting, using brine and injection, which helps the fish keep more water. The result is a product that rehydrates well and has a pleasant, flaky texture.
Catalonia and the Basque Country are among the strongest markets for Icelandic salt cod in Spain. For many years, it was sold there under the shared brand Bacalao Islandia.
Salt cod in Iceland itself
At home, Icelanders have traditionally eaten salt fish simply. The classic is saltfiskur with potatoes, boiled and served with melted butter or a little fat, sometimes with rye bread on the side.
It was everyday food in fishing villages, not a delicacy. In recent years, Matís and Icelandic chefs have worked to give salt fish more attention at home, showing that it can be just as interesting as the dishes served in Spain or Italy.
Leftover fish often ends up in plokkfiskur, the Icelandic fish stew, where flaked fish is mixed with potatoes, onion and a white sauce.
How to soak salt cod
Before cooking, salt cod must be soaked to remove most of the salt. This step is essential, and it takes time.
Rinse the fish under cold water, then place it in a large bowl of fresh cold water in the fridge. Change the water several times a day. Thin pieces may need a day, while thick loins can take two or three days.
The best way to check is to taste a small piece from the thickest part. It should be lightly salty, not harsh. Many lightly salted products sold today need much less soaking, so always follow the instructions on the package.
Bacalao in Spain
Spain has countless salt cod dishes. In the Basque Country, bacalao al pil-pil is a classic: the fish is cooked gently in olive oil with garlic and chilli, and the gelatine from the skin turns the oil into a silky sauce.
Bacalao a la vizcaína is another Basque favourite, with a sauce made from dried red peppers. In Catalonia, salt cod appears in esqueixada, a salad of shredded raw salt cod with tomatoes, onions and olives.
During Lent, when meat was traditionally avoided, salt cod became especially important across Spain. Many of these dishes are still linked to Easter today.
Bacalhau in Portugal
Portugal is often said to have a salt cod recipe for every day of the year. Bacalhau is central to Christmas Eve dinners, often simply boiled with potatoes, cabbage and eggs, and dressed with olive oil.
Bacalhau à Brás mixes shredded cod with thin fried potatoes, onions and scrambled eggs. Pastéis de bacalhau, small fried cakes of cod and potato, are a popular snack.
Portuguese buyers have traditionally preferred heavily salted, well-dried cod, which has a firmer texture and stronger taste.
Baccalà in Italy
In Italy, salt cod is especially loved in the south. Naples and the Campania region have a strong tradition of eating baccalà, particularly at Christmas, when it is fried or cooked in tomato sauce with olives and capers.
In Rome, filetti di baccalà, battered and fried pieces of salt cod, are a classic street food. In Liguria and other regions, it is used in stews and fritters.
One detail can confuse visitors: in parts of northern Italy, such as Veneto, the word baccalà is often used for stockfish rather than salt cod. The famous baccalà alla vicentina is traditionally made with dried, unsalted cod.
Simple ways to cook salt cod at home
Once soaked, salt cod can be poached gently in water or milk until it flakes. Avoid boiling hard, which makes it tough.
Flaked salt cod works well in fritters, mixed with mashed potato, garlic and herbs. It is also good baked with tomatoes, onions and olives, or folded into a creamy gratin.
If you want to try an Italian-style dish, think of baccalà in tomato sauce with capers and olives, served with good bread. For more Italian home cooking, from pasta to pizza, Thrownomore, a Norwegian site with Italian recipes for home cooks, is full of ideas.
Buying salt cod
Look for thick, white pieces without yellow patches, which can be a sign of oxidation. Loins are the most prized cut and soak more evenly than thin tail pieces.
Some shops sell ready-soaked salt cod, which saves time. It should be used within a few days, like fresh fish.
Frozen, desalted salt cod is another option and is common in Spain and Portugal. It can go straight into stews and gratins after thawing, which makes it a practical choice for weeknight cooking.
A North Atlantic fish with a Mediterranean soul
Salt cod is a reminder of how food connects distant places. Cod caught off Iceland has fed Spanish families at Easter, Portuguese tables at Christmas and Neapolitan kitchens for generations.
Whether you cook it the Icelandic way with potatoes and butter, or the southern European way with olive oil and garlic, salt cod is worth getting to know. It takes a little planning, but the result is a dish with centuries of history behind it.
Cover photo: Anders Beer Wilse / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0.
About Sigrún Ólafsdóttir
Sigrún grew up baking rúgbrauð with her grandmother in Akureyri and has spent the last decade collecting recipes from kitchens all over Iceland. She writes Icelandic MAT's recipes, one dish at a time.